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Card Movie
The Grace Card
Nikon Digital D50
INTRODUCTION
This is how I take advantage of and arrange a D50.
Want free live phone assist, 24 hours a day, twelve months a yr? Should you're in the USA, name (800) NIKON-UX! Nikon also has a few of it's own operator's tutorials here.
I start off explaining things so merely my mom can perceive, and get on to deciphering each menu item for superior customers at the bottom.
For more examples of why you'd want to change these settings and why, also see my Maui Picture Expedition page.
BASICS:
CAMERA
Many of these adjustments require you to be in be in the P, S, A or M exposure modes. You set that on the top dial. The cute preset modes often lock out some adjustments.
I depart most settings at their defaults and use the Program publicity mode. I never use the cute little preset icon modes as a result of I favor to set something special myself.
ISO: I take advantage of 200. If the light gets dim and my images would get blurry from slower shutter speeds I enhance the ISO to four hundred, 800 or 1,600. I by no means hassle with in-between settings like 250 or 640. The D50 seems to be wonderful at ISO 1,600 in case you want it. I'd much somewhat have a slightly grainy but sharp image than a much less grainy but blurry one. Not like film, the D50 seems to be great at high ISOs, so I use them anytime I need them.
I would love to use ISO AUTO, but usually do not as a result of it additionally stays lively in Manual publicity mode. This firmware defect defeats the purpose of the manual exposure mode. Using menus to deactivate AUTO ISO for manual exposure mode takes more time than AUTO ISO saves. Rats.
White Balance (WB): I'd use AUTO and an 81A glass warming filter on the lens. I want hotter (oranger) images. I clarify white stability on my White Balance web page and explain more about how you can alter it on the D50 later.
QUAL: I shoot JPG NORMAL. That is known as NORM and L on the highest LCD, which stands for NORMal JPG compression and Massive (3,008 x 2,000) image size.
I've made 12 x 18" prints of the same shot made in BASIC, NORMAL, FINE and raw. I noticed NO difference! Critically, for those who saw these prints you wouldn't be capable to type them out either. I can see only the slightest differences on my monitor enlarged to one hundred%, which is analogous to a 20 x 30" print, and my digital LCD monitor has a hundred% MTF pixel-to-pixel, which prints don't. Don't worry: in case you need area, shoot BASIC and nobody will see the difference. The one strategy to tell is by looking at the file size.
I'll use BASIC for events and sports activities after I'm taking pictures many lots of and lots of of pictures at once. In these instances I am more concerned with time wasted for the recordsdata to switch, copy and archive. Primary seems ninety nine% the same as FINE, even blown up big.
I'll use FINE on uncommon occasions where I am capturing just some pictures and anticipate to see at them very closely. In these cases the extra size isn't vital if I anticipate to be spending a number of time analyzing every image.
I avoid FINE JPG as a result of NORM gives me the identical results, with half the file size. If I shot FINE I might run out of room on a card and miss a shot. Missing a shot is a very visible defect, and I see no defects in NORM. Nikon knows what they're doing. That's why they name it Normal and that is why I usually use Normal JPG.
OPTIMIZE IMAGE: I desire the vivid color I get from Fuji's Velvia 50 movie, so I tweak a D50 to offer color as vivid as I can get. To do this go to MENU > Taking pictures Menu (digital camera icon) > Optimize Picture > Custom > (set Saturation to + and Shade Mode to IIIa) > - - Done > OK. If you neglect to pick out "- - Finished" and hit OK it won't keep in mind these settings! Details are on the Taking pictures Menu page.
For photographs of people I either set the colors again to normal, or cheat and use the Portrait preset mode on the top dial.
FOCUS: AF.
METERING: Matrix.
LENS
Many lenses don't have any switches or settings. In that case, don't worry.
More superior lenses have focus mode settings, which shall be either "M/A - A," or "A - M" on older lenses.
On older lenses I depart it at "A," which is Autofocus. "M" is guide focus. Typically you also have to move the change on the camera, which is a pain.
If the switch says "M/A - A" then I exploit M/A. This provides autofocus, and if I grab the focus ring it instantly lets me make manual corrections. As soon as I faucet the shutter button again I get autofocus. This M/A setting, if the lens has it, gives each sorts of focus with out ever having to maneuver any switches . It's the best.
Non-G lenses can have an aperture ring the place the lens is hooked up to the camera. Set this this ring to the largest number, normally 22, if not 32 or 16. This number can be in orange on autofocus lenses. There usually is a lock to keep this ring set there, since if it comes off that setting you'll get an error message from the D50.
At Gooddigitalcameras.net find out all about] nikon d50 memory, nikon d50 screen,and nikon d50 6.1.
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Frequently Asked Questions...
How do you upload videos from your SD card to windows movie maker?
Okay so I'm trying to make a video thingy, and i'm editing it on Windows Movie Maker, and I put the SD card (Memory Card) into the computer, and when I click "insert video" and i go to SD card it dosn't have any videos!!!! Just pictures. so i was wondering how to get videos onto windows movie maker thanks
Answer:
ok im going so to help you with your video "thingy" 
. alot of cameras require a software in order for the videos to be cut, copied, pasted, and ect. if your camera came with a software you should try installing it.
also it may be you cameras retarded (no offence) and you should try copying the videos into your documents on your computer then clicking "import video" on movie maker.
it may also be that movie maker doesnt accept the video format its in and should try converting it ino AVI, WMV, MPEG, or etc.
hope i was of assistance
-Ryan Shubert
